How still we see thee lie...

Despite all the pressures of Middle East politics, Bethlehem at Christmas remains a magical experience, finds Geoffrey Humphrys 0 N 21 December 1995, the church bells rang and fireworks were set off at Manger Square in Bethlehem. The Palestinians were celebrating the departure of Israeli troops after 28 years of occupation. Thousands of residents waited for more than two hours at the square for the Palestinian police to arrive armed and in uniform to take over.
This ended the period which began when the Israelis took over control of Bethlehem in 1%7, the first period of Jewish rule since the days of King Herod. To their credit, they tried to administer the Christian holy places without prejudice. keeping non-Christian sightseers away from Bethlehem at Christmastime and giving priority to Christian worshippers. In spite of all the political, social and religious differences still causing turmoil in the Middle East, Bethlehem remains the most sacred little town in the world with its celebration of Christmas having special meaning.
By issuing passes, establishing priorities and manning check points, the administration recognised Christian devotion and gave first priority to Israeli Christians, then organised Christian tourist parties. Each year, in spite of the difficulties, the Israelis tried to ensure that the main Christian factions — Protestant, Catholic, Greek Orthodox and Armenia, were able to celebrate in their traditional manner on the customary dates from December 25 to January 19.
Although the patriarchal processions continue with ecclesiastical pomp, the scars of war and political discord are evident when approaching Bethlehem through the Jaffa Gate of Jerusalem. Yet it remains the way trodden by millions of pilgrims through the centuries, and looking outwards from Manger Square in any direction, it is still possible to visualise the little town as it was 2000 years ago.
There are jarring notes today, of course. such as King Solomon's Supermarket. King David's Cinema and the Shepherds' Cafe, but architecturally, with surrounding hills, the Church of the Nativity so dominates the scene that few fail to be moved by it. Bethlehem provides the last surviving link with the Crusaders, intermarriage having preserved the Norman characteristic of fair skin and blue eyes among the local people. This often causes surprise after travelling among the normally dark-skinned and dark-eyed Israelis. The traditional dress of the Bethlehem women always excites comment; even today although now worn mainly for tourist attraction, it retains the splendour of
the medieval past. Married women wear picturesque steeple-crowned, conical hats draped with flimsy veils. A heavy chain of coins round the forehead denotes that a Bethlehem woman is unmarried. In the past, this was her dowry. and it is covered by a plain white veil with the conical hat.
All Bethlehem women wear long, flowing, heavy red dresses, the bodices and wide sleeves of which are embellished with exquisite traditional cross-stitch embroidery.
Bethlehem is situated on the edge of the Judean highland escarpment. On the eastern side, rocky terraces abundant with figs. vines and olives drop steeply into a valley. Interspersed among these are the flat-roofed white houses, the bell towers of churches, convents and monasteries, and stretching beyond, the wastes of the wilderness of Judea reaching to the Dead Sea.
The narrow streets and alleys of Bethlehem are lined with small shops and balconied houses. In Manger Square, curio and souvenir shops abound, for nowadays the economy of the town relics heavily upon tourism. One of the specialities is mother-of-pearl made into baptismal shells. crucifixes, brooches and also used for the inlay work which is a feature of Eastern furniture.
Another worthwhile souvenir is something made from the local golden-brown olive wood. It is exquisitely grained, and when highly polished, makes admirable covers for Bibles, missals and prayer books. On Christmas morning visitors can watch the processions of church dignitaries in their colourful vestments, carrying embroidered banners as they wend their way along the five-mile dusty. winding road smith of Jerusalem to the Church of the Nativity.
The church itself is a veritable museum of the Christian faith, and its massive stone walls a tangible reminder that it has served as a fortress against "the infidels".
The Roman Emperor Hadrian, who had a wall built across Britain, tried to obliterate the sacredness of the birthplace of Jesus Christ by planting a grove in honour of Adonis on the site. The attempt failed, for in the 4th century Constantine uprooted the trees and marked the site with a beautiful church. Beneath a trapdour in the present church, the faded remains of an original mosaic can still be seen, The church building standing today is that erected by Justinian in the 6th century. It is the oldest church in the world still used as a place of worship. Its most striking feature is the low door, through which, only a small child can walk without bowing the head in humility. The original door was bricked up to prevent Saracen vandals riding into the church on horseback.
Below the church is the cave-like Grotto of the Nativity, a spot consecrated by centuries of pious worship. This is the scene perpetuated each year all over Christendom when volunteer groups erect Christmas cribs in or outside their churches.
Corning out of the Grotto and through the church, the way leads down the street of the Milk Grotto, where the Latin bells tunefully ring out on Christmas Eve.
Over a wall, the Shepherds' Fields stretch out in a glorious pattern of light and shadow. Here the shepherds were watching their flocks when the angel brought them the news that the Holy Child had been born in Bethlehem.
Unfortunately, the Middle East political problems are still not resolved, but visiting Bethlehem this Christmas will remain an inspiring, faith-renewing experience for any practising Christian.
Above all, it emphasises the pressing need for those engaged in any form of human conflict, to remember and try to act upon the true Christmas message of peace and goodwill to all men, not only on Christmas Day. but every day of the year.