A Polish feast around the world

Christmas is not the same the world over. Kasia Giedroyc reports on how Poles celebrate the coming of Christ.
IN POLISH households all over the world, the Christmas festivities reach their climax not on Christmas Day but on Christmas Eve. Wherever they are, and in whatever circumstances, Poles treasure Christmas Eve ("Wigilia") as a time of reconciliation, hope, and in particular, great family warmth. Together, the family remembers the past, and together, they look forward to the future.
Whether on a huge estate in Poland before 1939, or in a prison village in the depths of Siberia during the war, or in a cramped apartment in Gdansk, Or in some splendid residence in Manhattan, every effort is made to honour the occasion with a special Wigilia supper. There may be twelve courses (as many as there were Apostles) or there may be only one: the spirit of Wigilia remains the same.
The appearance of the first star is eagerly awaited by everyone for this is the sign for the celebration to begin. Everyone in the house gathers round the dinner table. Besides the family, this may include others who are lonely: Poles believe that no-one should be alone for Wigilia.
Underneath the white tablecloth, there is always some hay as a symbol of Christ's first cradle.
The lady of the house lights the candles, takes the oplatek ("wafer") and shares it with all those present. This solemn sign of friendship and love has particular significance for Poles abroad, many of whom receive the oplatek from friends or relatives in Poland, tucked inside a Christmas card.
Dinner usually begins with Barszcz (beetroot soup) served with uszki ("little ears", pastry envelopes filled with mushrooms) or cheese straws.
The main cow-se is a)ways fish
traditionally carp or pike because it is, after all, still Advent and, technically, a time of fasting! This is followed by poppy seed cake and gingerbread and perhaps some compote of figs and prunes. Toasts are made throughout the meal to absent loved ones, with wine or vodka.
After dinner, everyone gathers round the Christmas tree for presents and carols. The tree is a very special part of Polish Christmas: by tradition, it is decorated not with tinsel and baubles from a shop but with charming and ingenious homemade ornaments.
Before too long, however, it is time to get ready for Midnight Mass.