oW that June is within sight we have much to do in the hardening off of plants which are too tender for outside planting before that month. Most of these are started in greenhouse Or frame for gradual transplanting outside. Many of them would, at a pinch, be quite safe out of doors in Ailly; but there is no point in risk By E. 1. KING, 11 .A., F.R .11
ing a check by too early planting out, especially when that check means considerable delay in yielding.
Such plants as I refer to are runner beans started in boxes, celery started in a cold frame or cold greenhouse at the beginning of March, hardy or " outdoor" tomatoes started in greenhouse and frame about the early part of March, vegetable marrows, and so on. Now against a wall the runner beans can come out now, at any rate in the south; though if you arc a beginner in the north you may like to wait until the beginning of June. If you transplant now try and get a good ball of soil round each root, and make a hole disep and wide enough to include the stretching roots without bending them. / A little bone meal at the bottom of the hole will be very much worth while. The soil in the hole should not be too dry; if it is dry, water well about half a day before you plant in it, as well as alter. When the plants are in the rows about Mr,! inches apart, make a little ring of lime or soot about each one to keep off slugs. Fresh, lawn clippings lightly sprinkled about do a world of good in this respect. Stakes should be afforded at an early stage if you Intend to have your runner beans climbing in the ordinary way. Failure to provide canes in good time often seems to check the plants in a way they do not readily get over. So use good canes or rods, and provide little sticks for the first twinings of the leading shoots. String contraptions are equally good. If you so wish it, though, you can actually grow runner beans as bushes, pinching out the leaders like marrow leaders; this method provides a good yield but takes up 4 lot of room. But make up your mind, and either grow the plants as bushes or stake them good and early. There is no middle way that Is satisfactory. Peas especially are more prone to pests and disease if they are left to lie about on the ground and not staked with little twigs at an early stage.
Now let us get back to the frame. We can plant out any celeriac seedlings now ready front early March sowings If they have been properly hardened off. Fifteen inches apart each way is good. But if your celery is like mine. and a bit slow this year, you will either still be transplanting some of the seedlings or carefully encouraging quick growth in those transplanted. Transplant either into fine, moist soil in the frame, or into boxes. Do not break any of the roots in the process, and keep well watered thereafter. AS the plants come nearer to their outside planting, harden them off by placing outside during the day in a shady place. Marrows inay be hardened in this way, though tomatoes should be encouraged indoors still.
Lasting Foundations When preparing the site for marrows and tomatoes dig a good big hole and place at the bottom spill(' really manure (old), or plenty ol good vegetable rubbish such as lawn clippings and kitchen waste. Do not bury in a lump; incorporate well with the soil. Failure with the crop may be the result of this omission. Old sods are perfect as a rooting medium for these plants, and it must be admitted that it pays to do the job of building e--foundation well once and for all. No amount of surface feeding can make up for it.
Marrows like a sunny open spot where they can have lots of underground moisture. Vegetable manure holds it to perfection. Slants are about six feet apart or more. Tomatoes can be planted two feet apart against a sunny wall or fence; and the richer the soil they stand In the better.